Hello Chris. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. If there is an issue with using the Sniper EFI TPS signal, is there a remote TPS or an adaptor for the Sniper EFI that allows the TPS signal to be accessed for the transmission. technical rep said "You ahve high fuel pressure". Contact whomever sold you your system or Holley directly. So try changing your IAC hold value slightly:Tuning : Advanced : Adv. Seems like its too slow to grab idle when ac kicks on. We can not hit it at all, we hit the pedal abruptly, the engine gives a lot of excess fuel, the AFR gets super poor at first, the car stops, then the AFR gets super rich and the car runs until it cleans up. Reply Quote. It's all part of the pleasure of EFI. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. Engine has never stalled with Sniper system, once placed in Drive it just goes!!! Confirm the placement of all wiring, ensure that the WBO2 sensor is positioned properly, etc. Using a Snap-on variable timing light so this is why I say timing is perfect. Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. Hi. Camshaft is M-6250-B303 .480 lift intake & exhaust, duration at .050 is 224 degrees for intake & exhaust. If the TPS is 1% or below then the ECU is in control--2% or greater and the ECU thinks you've got it under control. No matter what do, my idle will not drop below 1350-1400 RPM when the engine warms. So I have been driving it for about 400 miles now to numerous car shows and going out for cruises around town, trying to work some of the bugs out from everything we did this winter, but I notice when I take off from a stop sign or I cruise at a very low speed (say30 mph) it seems to be very boggy from no throttle to about 1/8th throttle. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. As you have noted, each time the idle goes up. Is there away to program the ecu to compensate for this at start up. The problem I experience is that after driving for about 10-15 minutes, the car starts idle to high. If the issue persists, you may need to replace the IAC. But you've got to find where air is getting into your engine.The reason it's going up as high as 2400 RPM is because once you press the throttle beyond 1% the IAC opens to the park position. I have an entire article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions and while Sniper is still a sound choice for some applications, Terminator X (with transmission control) is hands-down the way to go for those who need that. But, whether your vendor provides you with tech support or sends you to Holley, I'd start by getting them a data log and asking for some insight. No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. Your task will be to find that. But, if the idle is so high that it is making you crazy then you might try dropping that number just a bit. I recently detached the TP sensor from the side of the sniper to physically move it and it still would struggle to get to 0%. As soon as I got the new one installed and wiredit fired right up and did everything it was suppose to do with no issues. First--besides the fact that it's not represented on the display, it is not even a parameter that you can datalog. So, if pressing the throttle is making it start, it's because you're flooded.Which is consistent with your rich idle condition comment, right? Then it changes and will not idle down, the handheld will display 0% IAC but you can see and feel that the IAC valve is more like 100%. It wont fire up. I installed a Holley Sniper on my Ford Maverick 302 V8. Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? Has a good size camshaft cant find any vacuum leaks. I have a feeling it's something simple but I thought I'd ask you first before I inadvertently change something that affects other areas. After it starts it idles around my 960rpm setting + or - 100rpm. that my Air/Fuel ration was 15:1 and I believe the target is 13.5:1. I think that a great number of the challenges that Sniper EFI System Owners face are brought on themselves by getting into the control settings before the system has really had a chance to learn. This will let you know at a glance if something is going awry with the fuel pump. Two months fighting, cursing, not getting any help from Holley OR the forum, and a stupid little tin plate. These are "transitional" cells, and you really have to make the effort to learn in these areas of the map. Your second problem should be a bit more concerning. There are six different acceleration enrichment tables that you can tweak and that may be the way to go. By the way, this is a new installation on a 69 Camaro, stock 350, dual sync, etc. I'm also having a high idle problem but its different. How can I adjust the startup speed down to about 1400 RPM? This only happens when coming to a stop and the idle is ramping down to the set idle RPM. The answer will divide the possible sources of additional air into two, greatly simplifying the problem.If the IAC number has not increased, then review the article above regarding high idle from a vacuum leak or high idle from sticking linkage. I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . A simple remove & clean will remedy this . These will fix the noise but if the performance is suffering then likely you won't see any difference since it is not likely to be related to this sound. And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? I guess we can't have everything. I would suggest at that point you need to contact whoever is providing your tech support and find out why the default values are not working for you. I had a customer recently with a high idle problem that he eventually traced to pad plug on one of the vacuum ports. If they are closed, check the primaries. If the ECU has not spent some significant time learning yet, I'd recommend going back through the setup wizard and getting everything back to default. is jumping all over the place when you experience this condition, it does not Suddenly, the engine accelerates alone, hears a great deal of air being sucked in, Consider adding fuel in the AE vs TPS and/or AE vs MAP ROC tables in the area where the stumble is occuring.Since this is happening at such low TPS levels it is possible that your engine would prefer a lower (richer) target AFR number at idle. If your mixture is too rich, it means there's too much fuel and not enough air. You have to remove all hoses in order to debug the problem. Your AFR is pegged lean. Were the additional load a simple step function it would be challenge enough for the ECU to gracefully increase the engine speed without overshooting. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. But I can tell you that for most people who try this it introduces so much RFI onto the Sniper that it never works right. I'd suggest that you assume everything the previous owner did was wrong until you can prove that it was done correctly. My primary reason for going EFI was drive-ability, (Startup and take off without waiting for the engine to warm up) and not have the occasional hesitation a carburetor has especially just barely opening the secondaries. I'm wonder if the iac can cause this. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. Does this seem reasonable and how hard will it be to get the idle and off-idle performance correct? This is Intermittent meaning, I can run this test 5 times and IAC will function incorrectly 2 out of the 5 times. Do I have to hook up sniper ac wire to relay or should iac pick up idle? Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. Watch videos on installation hints and if you haven't yet, download & read every Sniper installation guide you can find online. have noticed on the hand held is that Air/fuel Ratio rises to 20 +/- A/F and the Hey Chris! I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. But I wanted to go ahead and answer this so that it would make sense to someone who might not go that route.I think the first thing I'd do is try another pressure gauge. It didnt do this with the carb on it. The problem I believe this is creating is after I start vehicle (and its still in park), the IAC drops down to my hold percentage of 10% (since throttle % is not 0) before engine is warm and therefore causing the engine to stall out. Sniper setting is Stock camshaft. Ran 2 Holley carbs and an Edelbrock. We'll also be contacting you for future purchases now that I've discovered you! me know how it works for you. I recently had IAC issues identical to what you describe. Sniper EFI offers superior throttle response and wide-open throttle power. If you complete the process and find that the IAC is less than 2% at idle, repeat the process and use the set screw to make the RPM about 60 RPM below the target. You can drop it down and you will find it will behave more like you expect. That, I am afraid, is going to involve a little bit of luck if you don't want to create a 250 MB data log. The Super Sniper will allow you to monifor fuel pressure if you add an electronic sender but this is not an option with the standard Sniper. At that point the tps is pretty high, then shut the ignition off, pull the tape restart the engine and idle goes into hold mode and idle is through the roof. My problem with the sniper is the whistling and hard throttle pedal, I have a 700r tranny with a kick down cable. Thank you so much for your follow-up. If the engine will after the 4 seconds that the IAC kick drops off then it's not really going to help.At any rate, it costs you nothing to advance the ignition and see if that doesn't improve the idle, right? For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. It is a common one. Bolt on 4150 Flange Carburetor Replacement. You can manually set it 57 after you run the Wizard if required. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. Do you have a PCV on the engine? The Sniper EFI Manal says not to but many EFI installers have informed me that the transmission only reads the 5V TPS signal from the Sniper EFI & does not draw any power so will not affect the Sniper EFI TPS output. To finish, I rather tightly twisted the TPS signal and ground wires all the way from the controller to the Sniper TPS and very carefully routed them away from sources of RFI. Capability Range: Advanced Cycled the ignition off. AGAIN This is Intermittent meaning on a recent trip I stopped 3 times and issued occurred once. At some point you come upon problems that evade the easy answers and this is a good example. is the fuel pressure. A common issue we see is a result of poor fuel pump grounding running a eyelet from the pump ground to a rusty or painted surface. IAC is good 0-5% most of the time. If you go too high then the motor will not return to your target idle when you come off the throttle. It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. Very annoying ended up being simple my rear plates would stay open constantly it was driving me nuts I'd let off the pedal idle at 1300 blip the throttle a few times finally come back to 850. Edit I just ordered a Holley return / regulator and cap for the sniper ouletOh, this is not an OEM Master Kit, but the fuel pump should be the same EFI Pro shipped this kit. I have installed my Sniper and the car runs great. Is this an issue to worry about? The throttle position should be zero. My sniper is doing two thingsFirst issue, the idle is set at 800 and will idle fine, then There is a glitch in the system. When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. Thank you for any advice. It is easily solved by installing a four-hole gasket or four-hole spacer (depending on your hood clearance issues.) Holley Idle Air Control Motor Idle Air Control Motor Fits the Following Applications: Sniper EFI 90 mm, 92 mm, 102 mm Throttle Bodies Digital Pro-Jection Systems Avenger 4-bbl TBI Commander 950 Terminator TBI Thanks for the information you have provided on this site. Good luck! Bottom line ismy first one must have been faulty. I' m going to put the 3rd new pump this coming friday. Once it decides to come back down, it does so with no issue. You've got it running and warmed up but now you need to set. I can have it working fine (5% to 10% at target idle at operating temp.) The warmer the motor, the higher the idle will be at this point. You just need to go back through the IAC adjustment procedure now that idle timing control is enabled. I go into much more detail about that in this article on startup tuning. ?I never had my Carb Cold start RPM any higher then 1600 RPM.THANK YOU. When I see that your TPS is 1%, that tells me that you may have an RFI problem. Thanks for any help. :-). I have adjusted many settings and eventually mess it up and go back to the original map. It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. However I do have a couple of issues I hope you can help me resolve. I am Japanese who attached Sniper EFI. The noise is definitely coming OUT of the throttle body. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. 30 minutes later CTS reads 161, start engine Idle is jumping from 450 (almost stall) to 1500, IAC is jumping all over 10 90. Incorrect connections will result in excessive resistance. Holley Sniper IAC Problem 04-26-2018, 11:30 AM Hello. Its just at low speeds, not sure if its loading up or leaning out. Hang in there--you can do it. The problem was RF interferance . That Even though you think your timing is perfect I'd suggest you try cranking about 5-10 degrees of advance into the distributor and just see if that doesn't work better for you.Remember this: adjustable timing pointers go out of adjustment and harmonic balancers slip. Throttle Tip-In tuning can be a bit of a challenge but I'm confident you can get this resolved, Mike.Let me start by saying that unless you've really done a lot of driving on the system in some useful learning situations then I would set this issue aside and not even think about it. After 50 on the throttle position I'm not sure if the whistle goes away or you just can't here it anymore. But now that Terminator X is available, I highly recommend going that route. A good example of why it's so important to run a good pre filter in the fuel line. Handheld shows plenty of fuel so I dought it's an issue there. It sounds to me like it is way retarded.In the event that the timing is right then take a look at your AFR--the actual AFR, not the target. While adjusting the screw if the TPS position reads begins to read higher than 0% cycling the ignition switch will recalibrate the TPS back to zero. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. No big deal, just time to re-adjust! If not then you have some other issue that is behind this increased idle. Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. Just add 5 or 10 degrees of advance and see if it doesn't idle better. Yes, you are correct. I will confirm TDC with balancer but I have had balancer off and timed it before and after with same results. $107.95. The last 2 times have been shorter and one time the high idle was around 1400, this time around 1100. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). Getting the throttle blades and IAC to work together will keep your fuel injected hot rod running smooth and predictable. Then it will ramp down to 1200 but will not return to idle. Also what would you say a desired idle should be for a 3 speed automatic ford? Since that has long been corrected we have moved that information to the bottom of the article.). Not that I noticed. My guess is a faulty IAC since it is intermittent and I have not done any setup changes. I've tried repeatedly re-creating the scenario in hopes that the E.C.M. I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. I will turn it up some more.Is this something that the ECU will learn? Thanks for the great question! Honestly, I've never seen this happen but if the butterflies were misaligned on the shafts it could allow too much air to enter. It runs perfectly fine other wise. Wish I knew about it before I made my purchase. Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive.
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